Paris 8th arrondissement: Julien Boscus' origins
We met him at Climats in the 7th arrondissement, where he very quickly obtained his star.
With a well-made and full head, Julien Boscus is about to reoffend at the bottom of the Champs-Elysées. At the corner of the streets of Ponthieu and Jean Mermoz, this disciple of Pierre Gagnaire and Yannick Alléno, makes his discreet return under the sign of Origins. This son of a restaurateur and butcher from Aveyron plays the seasonal product and the well sourced market, hunting it at the moment in all its forms and quality vegetables.
The contemporary decoration, designed by Caroline Tissier, is refined, relaxed, without fuss. The house has about thirty place settings, not much more, offering a nice lunch and an alert menu. His beautiful ideas of the moment? They are called Saint-Jacques passion, grapefruit and avocado, mussels from the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel and its salad of wild herbs, plus cauliflower and tops, acin and mandarin, root vegetables and mandarin or even porcini mushrooms in fricassee, foie gras with its mushroom mousseline with lapar coffee, its Melba with hazelnut oil pack, even if they are, here and there, stunned by the excessive richness and the excesslein.
This was already Julien's fault at Climats, who, as a good student of Pierre Gagnaire, sometimes has trouble making things simple. But we will say that this overflow is the other side of generosity. Successful, in any case, the resistance dishes prove to be beautiful and good: cod with spinach velvet or even the very pretty pigeon pie, with its royal Rouennaise sauce, its splendid accompaniment - very Winner - of pear, beetroot and hazelnuts. On top of that, a young sommelier familiar with her subject offers you wines that match.
The fresh amphibolite muscadet of Jo Landron, the sumptuous chignin-bergeron of Fabien Trosset and the surprising marcillac (kaveyronnais, we are back to the chef's origins!) from fernservadou cuvée de l'Ecir from the Domaine Laurens make class escorts. At the end, the Charentais pineau signed with Bourgoin cognac nicely accompanies the scathing desserts of the little Dutch girl, Laura Vervoort, trained in Spain (in Barcelona at May Hofmann, in Barcelona at Akelarre with Pedro Subijana).
Among his successes, we salute the gourmet vacherin Laura with kiwi, Sicilian lemon cream, crispy shortbread, herb sorbet, cottage cheese foam, such as chocolate savant, homemade miso praline, 66% Caribbean cream, iced gruel and crispy cocoa leaves, not to mention the sweetnesses with the little tiramisu cabbage. In short, here is a new table not to be missed....
6 Rue de Ponthieu
Tel: 09 86 41 63 04
Weekly closing: Sat., Sun...
Nearby subway: Franklin-Roosevelt.
Menus: 44 (breakfast), 85 (dinner) €.
Card: 85-120 €.
Source : gillespudlowski.com